ขอบคุณทุกๆกำลังใจจากภรรยาที่น่ารักผม ทุกคนในทีม และชุมชนปีนหน้าผาเชียงใหม่ที่คอยเป็นพลังงานดีๆให้ผมเสมอมาครับ
ป.ล. ทริปต่อไปของทีมเราจะอยู่ที่ประเทศสหรัฐอเมริกานะครับ โปรดติดตามและให้กำลังใจเราด้วยครับ
Every new year resolution for the past 4 years I have been setting 3 goals to achieve in my personal and work life, and every year one item came back on the list it was climbing 8A. This goal reminded me everyday to keep motivated, train hard and focus on my objective. But climbing 8A prove to be a difficult goal to achieve, Thailand is a tropical country so the best time of the year to send project is November, December, this time is also our climbing high season so with work I did’t get much time to work on my project.
You also need to find the right partner, someone with the same level as you that can accompany you during the climbing journey. And finally find the right 8A that suit my climbing style. So between life, work, injuries etc, and I never accomplished my goal so far.
I went rock climbing in many places and met many climbers, some who just started rock climbing, but would be stronger than me, some way older than me but still crushing the wall. Those encounter made me reflect on what i was doing wrong, and find out how to improve to get better.
One time on the way back from the crag, while we were siting in the red truck I had the below discussion with a Canadian climber :
Climber : What grade are you climbing?
Me : My hardest climb is 7c + and I had never climbed 8A !
Climbers: I do not believe you that you never climbed 8A.
Me : Really, I’ve tried it but could not do it yet.
Climber: You have to climb 8A, because even me who do not have much time to go climbing I managed to climb 8A. So I think you can do it!
After that discussion, I went back to reflect on what my climbing friend was trying to tell me and I decided to change my training program. The new program i decided to follow is a 6 weeks training endurance designed by Jonathan Siegrist‘s trainer Mike anderson.
I’ve been following this training 4 days / week. The first reason for me to start this training was to get my body in shape for my rock advanced exam this fall in the USA . the second reason was to push my climbing ability to the next level.
I spent my first two weeks in the gym to prepare myself for the project. One thing I learned is that you need to be very patient and motivated. Many times I had to wake up very early morning to train before going to work. And several times I struggled to wake up at 5 and stay focus on my goal.
After four weeks, Nob and I went on a climbing trip in Lopburi. Our objectives was just to climb a long easy multi pitch and didn’t really expect to climb anything harder there. She completed our objective early so we decided to check project there and I manage to onsingted ” Ngu Chalad 7a + ” and almost send ” Million Bath Baby 7C ” but I couldn’t make it due to heavy tropical storm during my attempts
During that trip i could feel the progress and the positive effect of my training.I felt much stronger and confident , but still had to train harder to reach my 8A goal.
I had to be disciplined , stick with my training routine, make sure to not step back and work on my 8A project as much as possible.
I climbed my project “Aircon Direct F8A” 12 times. We are now in the middle of the rainy season so the weather in Chiang Mai so It has been raining a lot.
But with my partners Add and Gee we decided to keep trying no matter what the conditions were.
we all learned from climbing to NEVER GIVE UP, so we climbed even when the cliffs was soaking wet, we chalk it up and brush it until dry, we just wanted to climb this so badly. We spent several day on the rock and kept coming back, we felt so close to make it happened.
on the Tuesday 19 th June We decided to come back in the early morning by waking up at 4.30 am so we could drive out of town to the cliff at 6am and clim before work. I was nervous and pressured by time as I had to send it before my clients arrived at the cliff for their climbing course. In a way I think sometime pressure works well on me by pushing me to be focus on my objective. At 8 am that day the threes musketeers managed to sent the route.
Thanks for all the encouragement from my wife, my friends and my partner.
Celebrate a little while and move on to next project.
P.S. Our next adventure will be in the USA this fall
September : Red Rock Las Vegas.
October : Thai Team in Yosemite.
Stay tuned !!!!